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f UNITED STATES l PATENT ERICE. v

JOsEPH w. GREEN, .IR., `AND AROHIRALD sMITH, OE EAsT HAMPTON, MAssAOHUsETTs, AssIcNORs To THE GLENDALE ELAsTIc EARRIC COMPANY,

` OF SAM'E PLACE. M

I-:LASTIC OR CORD FABRIC.

- sPECIFIcATIoNformn-ig part of Letters Patent No. 283,100, eateaAugust 14, 1883.

`Application mea November' 3, 1882.' (No model.)

.To @ZZ whom imag concern:v

` Be it known that we,lJosEPH W. GREEN, J r., and ARCHIBALD SMITH, of East Hampton, county of Hampshire, State of Massachusetts, g 5 have invented an Improvement in Elastic or Cord Fabrics, of which the following' description, in connection with the accompanying drawings, is a specification, like letters on the I drawings representing like parts. roV Heretofore in the Y construction of elastic fabrics known as terry77 fabrics, they having independent sets of warp-threads of different material or color for the face and back, it has always been customary to employ binderthreads to unite the fabric of the face and backl to form parallel pockets for theelastic warps, and in such fabric the same weft-thread has been employed to unite the warp-threads Vof the face to form the face fabric, and also the warp-threads of the back to form the back fabric. This kind of fabric is objectionable, because the elastic warps `are not held with sufficient closeness to prevent them from short-` ening or drawing into the fabric when the fabric is cut up and` in use. Y

A class of elastic fabric known as goring77 for shoes, Stor, has been produced from sets of warps which have been made to appear at and to form part of both the back and face of the fabric, the said warpsbeing held together and made to confine the elasticwarps by means of a filling-thread of the same color. I-n this class of fabric the face and back must be alike in material and color, and consequently cheaper warps cannotl be used at the back than at the face, andif the face is black, as customary in shoe-goring, it' follows that the back must also be black, which is undesirable next the stocking, and precludes the possibility of a lightcolor for the back and another color for theface. .D Our invention consists in a fabric having elastic or cord warps held rmly against pos- .sibility of slipping between the threads of a united only by a lling-thread, which interlocks with the threads of the set of face and of the lset of back warp-threads at intervals, as hereinafter described, all binder-threads which 5o have heretofore been used inelastic fabrics `having,faceand-backof dierent color or ma- 4closelyand incorporates the same more intiline a2, `but showing more warp-threads, the

set of face and a set of back warp-threadsl lterial being omitted. We havev discovered that a fabric woven as hereinafter described binds and holds the elastic or cord warps more mately with the warp and weft forming the woven body of the fabric than has heretofor been done, so far as we are aware.

Figure l illustrates in face view a piece of our improved fabric, the same being represented as woven open 'in order to show the crossings of the various threads to be referred to.;.Fig. 2, a like view of the back Of the fabric. Fig. 3 is a diagram showing in top view the different sets of harness-frames employed for the diiferent warp-threads, the threads being shown as extended forward into the spaces of the reed, as in practice. Fig. 4

is a diagram representing the changes of` the' harness-frames and warp-'threads for each pass of the shuttlethrough two changes or repeats of the pattern. Fig. 5 is another form. of diagram to show the order in which the different warps are drawn through the harnesses. Fig.

6 is a view of a piece of fabric embodying our 75 invention, showing the face, back, and rubber warps, and the weft as separated or spiead apart to better show their crossings; and Fig. 7 is a cross-section of Fig. 6 along dotted 8O section being made after the insertion of the weft at the fifth pick. (See diagram Fig. 4.) The spaces between the horizontal lines represent the harness-frames, and the dots the order in which the different warps are drawn through them.

Referring to Fig. 3, it will be seen that we employ seven harness-frames, (marked 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, and 7 Theharness-frames 1 2 3 4 carry the face warps, @,'the harness-frames 5 6 the back warps, b, and the harness-frame 7 the rubber warp r. These warpthreads are `drawn through`the heddles of the harnessframes and through the space between the usual dents of the reed indicated by the line d, there being in feach of said spaces seven threads, including the rubber. l

Referring to Fig. 4, thelineof squares e represents the positions of the harness-frames designated by the letters HF for the iirst shed in commencing thepattern, the `figures in the squares representing the harness-frames which 2 esame are raised for the first pick. The line ofl Vabove described, will contain only one india- 'squares f g h i j 7c m show the successive changes of the harness-frames for the eight sheds which complete the pattern. After the eighth pick the pattern is repeated, and the n harness-frames are again brought into the positions designated 'by line e. During each re peat of the pattern it will be noticed that the harness-frame 7, carrying the elastic (or it 1o might be a cord) warp r, is. raised for one and lowered for the nex pick; that the harness-frame No. l for the face warp remains up for six picks and down for thetwo succeeding picks; the harness-frame No. 2 remains up for four picks, then down for two picks, and

then up for two picks; the'frame No. 3 remains up for two picks, down for two picks,

and up for four picks, and the harness-frame` No. 4 remains down for two picks and up for 2o six picks, the general order of the face warps thus being six up and two down, throwing the face warps well out and producing a six-leaf twill. The harness-frame No. 5 foi1 the back warp, which may and.preferably will be of a different material and color, remains down for two picks, up for two picks, and down for four picks, and the harness-frame No. 6 remains down for six picks and up for two picks',

the general order of the back warps being 3o two up and six down, or the reverse of the 5 or weft p, it being above the rubber at one pick and below it at the next pick, the weft being kept against the rubber bythe face and back warps, which., co-operating with the weft, act to bind and hold the rubber or cord 4o warp rmly and securely in the fabric, without liability ofthe rubber or cord beingv drawn out of place, or running in,77 as it is called.

In the manufacture of our improved fabric the outermost dent-spaces of the reed, or the l spaces next to the spaces in which are placed 4 the six warp-threads and rubber thread, as

rubber or cord warp, it, which is shown in Figs. l and 3. rIhese single warp-threads a Y will be`wrapped by the filling, and the edge of our improved fabric will be as represented in fUnited States Patent No. 17 0,57 2, to which reference may be had. rIhe drawings, Figs. -1 and 2, show thefface warps, c, the back warps, b, the rubber warps r, selvage rubbers or cords n, and weft-thread p as they will appear upon the face and upon the back of the fabric, the said threads being spread out. The rubber warps are represented by a heavier line than the face and back warps, and the fillingthread p, which binds and locks the warp-threads a, b, and r in the normal contracted condition of the fabric, do not show upon either the face or back of the fabric. This weft should be of the samecolor as the face warps. A y The fabric produced by the method of weaving herein described, should the rubber or cord warps be entirely withdrawn, would present a complete or solid fabric, and it will be understood that we do not use a binder-warp.

We claim An elastic or cord warp fabric having independent sets of face and back warpfthreads, a set vof elastic or cord warps, and a filling or weft thread to unite together the face and back warps, the face warps and the independent back warps being reversed each, respectively, at every sixth pick, andthe rubber warp being reversed at every pick, whereby the rub-u ber or cord warp is interlocked between the threads of the independent, face and back warps, which appear each only upon its own side of the fabric, substantially as set forth.

In testimony whereof wefhave signed our names to this specification in the presence of two subscribing witnesses.

JOS. W. GREEN, JR. ARCHIBALD SMITH.

Witnesses: 5

GEO. M. JoHNsoN, E. C. KOENIG. 

